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March 2010
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Brian’s Pourhouse – 606 Oak Street, Hood River

Last time I went to Brian’s Pourhouse (and I don’t go there often), I sat at the bar with a friend. The bartender welcomed us, and said, “Would you like to see a menu?”

“Sure,” I replied, not famished, but willing to see if something irresistible was waiting on the specials page.

“They’re right there. Just grab one,” said the bartender, pointing at a pile of menus three feet from me at the end of the bar.

I’m not a super-picky diner, and I don’t expect 5-star service in every local bar cum restaurant. But Brian’s styles itself as more than a pub. The decor is modern-timeless, spotless white tablecloths cover the tables, main courses hover around $20/plate, and the servers are dressed in black and white. Brian’s is a restaurant, and service is part of what makes a restaurant. Self-serve menus don’t cut it.

I didn’t order anything that night. Neither did my friend.

That’s not to say the food at Brian’s isn’t good. It is. It’s also consistent. It’s not fancy… protein/starch/veg/sauce is the standard fare, with wild mushrooms, demi-glace, and higher-end seafood like scallops regularly on the menu.

Pair the food with a Kiwi Kamikaze or a Double Mountain beer, and you’ll have a perfectly edible meal.

Brian’s isn’t the most inventive restaurant in town (see Nora’s or Sophie’s for that), but it also isn’t the most down-home meal (try the Mesquitery). It’s a good restaurant where you and your friends will all be able to find something for dinner. And if you’re looking to tie one on via several delicious mixed drinks, this might just be your place.

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